The sevenfold tie is a luxury version of the regular men's necktie, often hand made in Napoli, Italy. The sartorial brands from the Napoli area in Italy often use ancient techniques and produce silk neckties similar to the way it was made by hand several generations back. The sevenfold tie (cravatte sette pieghe) is hand cut and folded six times, which creates a thicker/ heavier tie (more silk used).
Most of the high end 7 fold ties are hand made in Italy. More specific: the Napoli area in Italy, where small shops specialize in high end men's accessories using similar techniques and processes (sometimes time consuming) as decades ago.
Unlined Sevenfold Tie
Robert Talbot makes an unlined sevenfold tie for decades, fancy jacquard silk, hand made in the USA. Only the Robert Talbott Sevenfold collection (not the Estate and Best Of Class collection). Due to the (often) heavy jacquard silk used for the unlined Robert Talbott tie, the tie looks close to an "regular tie", compared to some other brands where the hand stitching is shown on the front of the tie.
Finamore Napoli makes a nice unlined sevenfold tie. They produce both regular and unlined sevenfold ties, but the unlined sevenfold tie is the trademark of Finamore. The Finamore unlined sevenfold tie is made of regular weight silk and cashmere/ wool, which can make the tie look "delicate". Some persons really appreciate the delicate hand stitched sartorial look, however for the average tie wearer this might be too much (and even think the tie is not perfectly finished). Summary, wonderful piece of sartorial tailoring but might be a bit too delicate for the average guy.
The Unlined Sevenfold Tie Explained
The unlined sevenfold tie is a luxury neckties which is made by hand, using sartorial techniques of decades ago. It has all the wonderful ingredients to pleasure a bespoke/ sartorial connoisseur, interested in artisan details.
Let's go quick through some definitions. 1. A silk tie is folded, with wool or similar filler and finished with thread (back). 2. An Italian quality silk tie, often still hand cut silk, folded, wool lining, hand stitched back center of the tie with an end loop, slightly loose, to allow some movement. 3. Not taking in account the Robert Talbott sevenfold tie and some interesting English brands, The sevenfold tie is often made in the Napoli area in Italy, using hand cut silks, wool lining, the tie gets expertly folded and stitched, often resulting in a pretty thick silk tie. 4. The unfolded sevenfold tie, is constructed similar to the lined (with wool lining) sevenfold necktie, but has no wool lining, which means also less structure. This means only expert tie makers stitch by hand the unlined sevenfold ties as it is a more complex and sensitive process. The silk borders, as these do not connect to any lining, are hand rolled and stitched (very light thread).
The Unlined Sevenfold Tie Summarized: The unlined sevenfold tie gets it structure from very precise folding and stitching, the borders are hand stitched, the back bottom part of the tie will show the back side of the silk fabric pattern. as there is no lining, the unlined sevenfold tie is pretty light (compared to lined ties).
The unlined sevenfold tie is a great option for a person whom likes neckwear and other sartorial/ bespoke clothing and accessories, and appreciate hand made details of artisan tailors.
The unlined sevenfold tie might be a less favorable option for a person whom appreciated a full tie and medium/ large knot (unlined tie make a light/ medium knot) and appreciate very consistent quality but might not appreciate the outer stitching (front of tie) and slight "imperfections" (not perfectly symmetric) due to totally hand made process.
Both Kiton, Borrelli and a few other brands also produce unlined sevenfold ties, Kiton mostly uses that for cashmere and wool blend ties.
Luigi Borrelli and a few other brands produced a elevenfold tie (just for a season/ special order) several years back. Your best bad today would be the Luigi Monaco 11 fold tie, with heavy Italian silk and contrast hand stitching.
More 11 fold (10 fold neckties added, sartorial stitch (back), heavy jacquard silk.